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We started the day (yesterday – Tuesday) with the standard lame hostel breakfast. We decided to then seek out a couple of adventure spots.
The closest, Tenejapa, was just over the nearest mountain. Piece-o-cake. Who ever got the contract to proof the Mexico maps must have quit some time ago. We meandered into the mountain side only to find ourselves at a Pemex on the edge of San Cristobal. We basically drove 20 km to end up about 10 blocks from where we started. Typical Donnie and Sharon natural GPS. After asking the Pemex attendant as to our whereabouts, we were delighted to discover that we were now on the highway to our second choice, Comitan. The town was just part of the journey. Our real destination was El Chiflon. The road to Comitan was fairly smooth, except for about 30 km of heavy, one lane construction and a fleet of slow dump trucks to overtake. El Chiflon was about 40 km out the other side of Comitan; 40 km of bumps, ruts, broken down trucks and ATOS eating chug holes. However, we were up to the challenge and it was well worth it. You’re probably wondering at this point as to just what an “El Chiflon” is. A desert topping? A Mexican Twinkie perhaps? El Chiflon is a series of fabulous waterfalls, with the ultimate 700 meter fall (plus or minus) at the end of a very long, uphill walk. The seclusion was exhilarating. The water was ultra clear light green. The limestone bottom was cream colored and the full sun reflected exquisitely off of the bottom.
Now I must point out that these folks did it right. We happened to be there on a very slow day so there was possibly only 30 people in the entire park. The park was also immaculately clean. However, absolutely the best part of the park was that mid-way beer stand. All the walking I’ve been talking about was not anything close to level ground. It seemed like we had taken the stairs up to the Tower of the Americas. Again… it was worth the climb; and the cold beer break.
What else was there? Ants. BIG ants. “Take me to the hospital, I’ve been bitten by an ant,” sized ants. Calling them ants was probably an insult but these were some big as &*$% ants. Thankfully we saw them coming. Heck, we might have heard them coming. They posed for a few pictures then allowed us to pass. We took a quick dip in one of the frigid shallow pools then headed off, back to San Cristobal. Time then, 4:30 p.m.
The hour and fifteen minute drive to San Cristobal developed into another adventure that lasted well after sundown. This is an act that Sharon & I have played out many, many times in Mexico. Sharon finds a squiggly little line on the map, we unanimously decide it is a viable short cut and, well. You get the idea. The ATOS whimpered. Having only eaten breakfast we went straight to the “RobinWilliams” look-a-like Italian restaurant. Pasta, wine and nighty night.
Today we set out for a new course of action. We set an alarm for 6 a.m. and headed for Tenejapa. Again we found a whole new way to get nowhere. We did see a different side of San Cristobal though. Eventually, through sheer luck and tenacity, we found the correct road. Prior to reaching Tenejapa is Romerillo. Very cool and surreal. The center of this small village is the graveyard. It’s on a gentle hill with a goat or two on the fringe. In the center are 22 massive wooden crosses (approx. 30 feet tall) and all the dirt mound graves are at their feet. Each grave has a piece of the dead one’s bed or something wood that belonged to them placed atop their respective mounds. Because it was so early the shadows of the morning sun made for some cool pictures. Make no mistake, it was also creepy.
We made it down to the tiny town of Tenejapa, went in to the Cathedral at the zocalo and were amazed by a lone beam of light that shown through a window on the east side, (remember, it’s early). Smoke from dozens of candles danced in the light that terminated in front of the main alter. It could have been a scene that Robert Rodriguez stole to use in “El Mariachi”.
Did I mention a change in direction? Yesterday, before the El Chiflone thing we decided to change plans, Re-booked/re-bought our flights and are currently waiting for a flight to Mexico City. We’re going to be in those parts till Sunday. So much to do and see there and I am NOT going to rent a car. Underground Metro, baby.
