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MexicoCity has proven to be the ying and yang of hispanic culture. Most of today was a good day, nor was it our best. There was definitely a portion that really pissed me off.

Early this morning we hailed a cab and went to La Guadalupana, La Basillica deGuadalupe or better known as Tepeyac. Ultimately, this is where the VirginMary appeared to Juan Diego, she gets him to toss some flowers into his tunic and, lo and behold, we have the imprint that many of us are familiar with, theVirgin of Guadalupe. Tepeyac is the hill where it happened. Saw it. It’s a basillica because the Pope has been there, many times and because of all this…sadly it is so commercialized that it’s pathetic. It’s a bit like making Cancun a religion. The original Cathedral is juxtaposed next to a 60s’modern cathedral which looks more like a Worlds Fair Exposition site. Sorry folks and all my Catholic friends out there but… argh!

Yet…it was still pretty cool. Not so much the site but the outpouring of spirit from the people, los pelegrinos that walk miles to get here, some on their knees; that’s the stuff that I find endearing. Our cab driver, Julio was extremely helpful as a guide, though I don’t remember asking him to hang out with us.

After about 4 hours of Tepeyac we returned to the hotel for a beer and tequila break.  Then I got the bright idea to find the “International Chapel of Santa Muerte”…the death saint, grim reaper, patron saint of the drug lords, etc.  We took the subway into a slimy barrio. Most cars that ran were on blocks. Those that didn’t were being parted out, right there in the middle of the street and left like a turkey carcass on Thanksgiving Day.  We, on the other hand, looked very, VERY white. The Chapel is in the middle of this and we, the whities, were carrying about $5000 worth of camera gear. Great freakin’ idea Donnie.

This really isn’t all that built up, ok? However it was a pretty dicey situation so we remained very aware of our surroundings. We entered the capilla, take some photos and video then ask a guy that says he works their for an interview.  Nope. He sends us to the lady selling stuff, (Santa Muerte t-shirts, Santa muerte bracelets, Santa Muerte bug spray).  Nope.  You must talk to Padre. Here we’re sent to the “so called” padre that runs the place. “Buy this book/pamphlet and in a few minutes I’ll give you an interview.” After buying the pricey pamphlet and waiting a very long time, some other lady comes out to tell me that “padre” will see me next Wednesday at 4 pm.

Now, guess how I felt and what I really wanted to say to padre… Use any combination of the following symbols:

%&$#@!*^-?>

Once out of the barrio and back at the hotel I destroyed a small pint of tequila.  Then we took off for La Zona Rosa.

Usually we won’t go “tourist” but there is a hotel in La Zona Rosa that was the set for “El Matador” (2005, Pierce Brosden,  Greg Kinnear). We just wanted to see and drink at the same bar. Boy, did Hollywood do a number on that one.  Evidently they only used the driveway.

All of the above still made for an eventful day. However, maybe more of you will now understand why we adore the smaller, out of the way, non-turisted places.  Nicer people, better food, friends for life.   But I do really dig this subway thing.

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