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Our time in Melaque was the recharge part of this trip. During the summer months it’s not the type of town that buzzes like the din of the earth, a constant energy that oozes into the dusty streets. It’s rather sleepy and well, let us address the elephant in the room; the heat and the humidity. Open a bag of chips and they’re stale halfway through. Want ice cream? Have a straw handy ’cause you’ll be drinking it. The buzzing all around you is the sound of mid-air frying insects plummeting out of control.
The above is not a complaint. It’s just the facts. On the weekend there were a few Mexican nationals vacationing but during the week the city belonged to Sharon and me. That was the same for our hotel. The afternoons were a city-wide sauna that resulted in a lot of pool time and afternoon drinking. The only reprieve was that it is the beginning of the rainy season. Most afternoons the heat triggered healthy tropical showers. For the insects, they were the rains of Lazarus; droplets of miracles that brought the scorched bugs back to life. Their behavior appeared to be an intoxicated one. Either they had to re-learn how to fly, or they were groggy from their new found life, or it was just their hollow carcasses floating up in the steam. The post tropical shower bugs were confusingly entertaining. It also could have been the day drinking.
On the other hand, the nights in Melaque were quite pleasant. Some nights we just spent on the balcony, others we walked to the town square to indulge in fresh cooked churros and a couple of evenings we took in a live Cubano act at a nearby club. It was at this club that we met Monte. We connected because he has a brother that lives in San Antonio and works in radio. I know him but I will not disclose his name in case Monte is in witness protection, (Monte may or may not be his real name). We met up a couple of times but bad cell service and worse internet got in the way of coordinating get togethers. In months and years to come I am sure we will meet up again. Since Monte may or may not be in witness protection, he knows what I mean. Of course if that’s his real name.
The balcony 
Fresh churros 
Clouds or steam?
June 21 – We left Melaque early for Guadalajara via the free road. This took us through Autlán (Carlos Santana birthplace), along beautiful scenic passes and cooling higher elevations. We also brought the rains with us. We decided to stay at a hotel we’re familiar with in Tlaquepaque, the arts district of Guadalajara. There are numerous walking streets lined with restaurants, shops and great art. Things can also get rather pricey.
Our hotel was a short walk to the district and they provided us with umbrellas which made a days walk quite fun. Umbrellas in Mexico? It was a first for us.
Our three days here were pretty laid back, partially because of the rain but… not really. We just made an effort to be lazy.
An observation – Back in Melaque, wearing a mask during this time of Covid 19 was relaxed and optional. In Guadalajara, and more so Zacatecas (where we are now), is mandatory in shops and hotel public spaces. All doorways are plastered with signs requiring “Cubrebocas”, the oh so unpleasant face mask. Entry through all doorways is a 3-4 step process.
- 1. Step in a shallow tray of Clorox or something similar.
- 2. Get your temperature taken on your face, hand, arm or whatever is available.
- 3. Receive a liberal squirt of sanitizer on the hands.
- 4. (Optional) Get a full body spray of unknown value. You just have to comply.
Going into the next store? Repeat. Going on a shopping spree? You’ll be pretty sterile by lunch time. We have come to the conclusion that the extra Covid vigilance is due to the cooler temperatures in the highlands of Mexico. You know, the flu is a winter animal.
Weird, but we liked it. 
Our patio in Guadalajara
June 24 – On the free road to Zacatecas you get the opportunity to witness a breathtaking view of the Barranca de Oblatos. It truly is beautiful but the breathtaking part is from the sharp turns, lack of guardrails and the possibility of plummeting a few thousand feet. Somewhere between this and Zacatecas we came across a mezcal distillery. We played tourist and dropped in for a peek.
There it was, one hundred thousand liters of mezcal. And there was more in back. I behaved, declined samples and moved on.
Zacatecas has been described to me as the Mexican version of a small European city. In many ways I have to agree with that based upon my limited European travel. Endless cobblestone streets, narrow and winding steep climbs and coffee available on every block. But does small town Europe have donkeys carrying vats of pulque? Does small town Europe have a museum dedicated to torture? Does small town Europe have lucha libre wrestling masks? I don’t think so.
Yet it does remind me of our time in France. But if you happen to be in France… don’t order the enchiladas.
We have spent most of our time just walking the cobbled stone streets. However we did complete one adventure we started a year and a half ago: Finding giant baby Jesus. Outside of Zacatecas in the tiny town of Zoquite is the Guinness Book of World Record holder for the largest baby Jesus statue.
There you have a ceiling-to-floor record holder. I’ll just leave it at that for now.
After visiting Zoquite and the record holding baby Jesus, we checked out the town of Tacoyleche. If you insert a few spaces thats Taco y Leche or “Taco and milk”. In the center of town are some century or two old “cones”; antique grain storage.
There were 30 to 40 of these that were swallowed up by the growth of the town.
Okay… it’s been a great trip. Tomorrow we will attempt to make it back to the border but we’re not promising. There is a rustic horse race track near Conception de Ore that may delay our return. Can’t pass up a good (dangerous) horse race. Hasta muy pronto mis amigos.
